A Perfect Day in Millvale, PA

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A Perfect Day in Millvale, PA

Tom Hardy • Jan 02, 2022

Thanks to all of the people that make our favorite places special!

The past two years of quarantines and travel restrictions kept many of us tethered to our homes, imagining a day we could travel more freely again. That’s created a sense of wanderlust but also an appreciation for places closer to home. How would you spend a perfect day in a community near your own home? I’m sharing my answer to that question below in the hopes that you’ll reflect on yours.

As we start 2022, I appreciate how much we benefit from the unseen symphony of people that work every day to keep our communities functioning. Our communities and neighborhoods are more than the mere backdrop for our lives, they inspire us through their creativity and resilience.

Millvale, PA is a town of about 3,600 people along the Allegheny River just across the border from Pittsburgh. The town’s roots date back to 1868 as Millvale Borough was formed from portions of Shaler Township and Duquesne Borough. The name derives from the predominant industry at the time of its founding and its location in a valley, and the town occupies less than one square mile.

There is nothing like an existential crisis to rally neighbors together to save their town and chart a vision for the future. The crisis came to Millvale in 2004 in the form of Hurricane Ivan that put much of the town’s low lying business district and surrounding areas under water.

Millvale rallied in the face of devastation—so much so that when you visit today the events of 2004 might seem like a mere footnote to its 150+ year history. But that would overlook the countless hours that community members committed to rebuilding. After the literal and figurative bailing water was completed, volunteer efforts focused on building a Millvale Community Library as a “powerhouse of local involvement” and now a central piece of Millvale’s EcoDistrict planning efforts.

Millvale’s EcoDistrict planning focuses on three key issue areas: food, water, and energy. This focus came out of an extensive community planning process facilitated by the talented team at evolveEA. The true test of a community plan is not the resulting document—but what the implementation looks like in the subsequent years. And the results in Millvale are impressive and true to the goals of the original planning work.

Why did community planning in Millvale succeed when efforts in other communities fail to generate the desired results? The answers are more complex than can be provided in a single blog. But if I had to summarize in two words — alignment and perseverance. Residents, business owners, elected officials, and non-profit leadership are all in alignment around the plan. Not only are they in alignment regarding the plan — each entity takes a specific piece of the implementation work. It’s amazing what can happen when stakeholders are focused on the desired results and not on who gets credit.

Perseverance is critical because positive community change takes time. It’s the long game. Millvale has benefitted from a continuity of leadership, both elected and unelected, for nearly a decade after the original planning work began. They’ve stayed at it. And the direction hasn’t change. I’ve been fortunate to work with great people that make up Millvale’s Community Development Corporation, Borough council and staff, and New Sun Rising to name just a few of the key entities. And much of the power behind this comes from an inspiring group of volunteers committed to bettering their community.

Before I detail my day in Millvale I start with an apology. I can’t possibly outline all of Millvale’s unique spots and people in a single blog. What follows just represents a narrow sample and is not meant as a definitive itinerary. The best way to experience a place relies more on serendipity than an agenda.

The Ride – 8:00 AM

Millvale is about a ten minute drive from Downtown Pittsburgh, but the best way get there is via two wheels on the Allegheny Riverfront Trail. For me, the ride starts in the Northside where I can drop down to the trail by PNC Park and enjoy a scenic 4-mile ride up the Allegheny River terminating at Millvale Riverfront Park. The trail is well utilized and is a place where you’ll see a diverse range of people exercising.

The investment in a riverfront trail may seem obvious now, but in the late 1990’s when the region was still hemorrhaging population many people were cynical that this was a wise use of public resources. Much credit goes to then Pittsburgh Mayor Tom Murphy for a simple yet steadfast vision of turning miles of industrial riverfront into an amenity that could be accessed by all. Now the headlines of Pittsburgh’s regeneration are dominated by the expansion of tech and life science companies fueled by our research institutions—but without the early strategic investments in quality of life and place making I’m not sure Pittsburgh’s economy diversifies the way that it has over the last decade.

Jean-Marc Chatellier’s French Bakery — 8:45 AM

The best way to start off a busy day in Millvale is a stop at Jean Marc—a French bakery that draws folks from the entire region. It’s hard to beat the simplicity of a fresh buttery croissant. I’ll grab some macaroons for later. And his cakes are legendary. I’m not going to carry a cake around with me all day, but when the next birthday celebration requires one I’ll be back.

Girty’s Woods — 9:00 AM

A group of local Millvale stakeholders mounted a grassroots campaign with the assistance of the Allegheny Land Trust (ALT) to purchase and preserve 155 acres known as Girty’s Woods. Today we are going on a guided hike led by the ALT. The terrain is rugged but beautiful. Previously inhabited only by logging companies and folks on their ATVs, the remnants of these uses are readily visible. Preserving this area from development not only provides recreational opportunities—it helps manage the storm water that originates from communities up the hill from Millvale.

Tupelo Honey Teas — 10:30 AM

The perfect place for a tea shop is, of course, connected to a library. Danielle opened this retail location for Tupelo Honey Teas in 2016 and her passion for tea and community comes through everything she does. She blends and packages her teas on site and in full view of of customers enjoying a leisurely morning in this comfortable store. It’s the perfect setting to watch the choreography of customers and staff. And a great place to pick up some gifts for the tea lover in your life.

Esther’s Hobby Shop — 11:15 AM

We all have favorite stores that you can’t find anywhere else. Esther’s Hobby Shop is one of those places. Walking in here is like walking back into my childhood. The era before electronic games when you bought a model car or train to assemble. These are all here at Esther’s. And my personal favorite—model rockets! The best part is these are exactly the same as when I was young. I feel like I haven’t aged at all in here! Time to grab a starter rocket kit for my son--he’ll like it as much as I do, right?

Duncan Street Sandwich Shop — Noon

Who doesn’t love a good sandwich? And Duncan Street Sandwich Shop has the best sandwiches in Pittsburgh. That’s not a claim I make lightly. Kendyl and Dan make everything make everything here from scratch. EVERYTHING.

Okay, there it is. The gratuitous sandwich shot. I couldn't resist. I went with the Nashville Hot Turkey. Crispy turkey leg cooled with garlic aioli and lettuce between thick slices of bread. The best part is the sandwiches are so large, ½ will fill me up and I’ll get to enjoy this again tomorrow.

Millvale Food + Energy Hub — 12:45 PM

Every community should have a community gathering place. The best ones are not institutional and built by and for the community. The Millvale Food & Energy Hub is such a place. A former Moose Lodge, acquired and developed by New Sun Rising, provides co-working spaces and is home to several other community partners such as 412 Food Rescue and Sprezzatura. It is home to community meetings, trainings, and other events. A few weeks ago I attended a launch for 412 Food Rescue's Good Food Project in the space. I love how the space blends new features yet retains original elements of the space.

I had the good fortune of being involved with the acquisition of the building providing technical assistance to New Sun Rising through Neighborhood Allies’ Centralized Real Estate Accelerator Program. In the current real estate market, proposed community uses struggle to compete with prospective cash buyers eyeing market rate housing conversions. Retaining a building that historically served community purposes, and re-imagining that for current community needs is rewarding work.

Attic Record Store — 1:30 PM

Attic Record Store has been a fixture in Millvale’s business district for decades. After the flooding from Hurricane Ivan, damaged records were piled in mounds outside the sidewalk. For lovers of vinyl like me, it was a heartbreaking scene. Fortunately, Attic Records, like many Millvale businesses, re-built and re-opened. If you are just starting your record collection or need to round out some missing pieces, Attic Records is the perfect place. Records are crammed floor to ceiling on shelves with each aisle only wide enough for a single person. Today I managed to do something I’ve never done before, which is to walk out without buying anything. I’m thinking that will make up for all the other times I left with far more than I intended to buy.

Grist House Craft Brewery — 2:30 PM

The Allegheny Valley area has a number of unique breweries, and Grist House Craft Brewery has drawn people from throughout the region to its taproom. The best part of its taproom is the expansive outdoor space that gets utilized year round thanks to a handful of fire pits and visiting food trucks that complement the beer offerings. And dogs are welcome — which adds to the ambiance. Today I’m grabbing some Siberian Highway Bourbon Barrel Stout which will be perfect to settle in with on a cold winter evening.

St. Nicholas Church Maxo Vanka Murals — 3:30 PM

Pittsburgh has many churches founded by Eastern European immigrants in the early 1900’s and St. Nicholas is one of the most notable of these churches. Maxo Vanka created a series of murals inside St. Nicholas in 1937 and then again in 1941 which draw from his journey as a Croatian immigrant. Vanka’s style is frequently compared to Diego Rivera’s. The breadth of the work is best experienced in person. Each visit is an experience and an appreciation for details I had missed previously. I'm forgoing adding any pictures because they don't do justice to seeing the murals in person.

Ride Home — 4:30 PM

I’ve written in a previous post that healthy communities draw strength form people, place, and planning. Millvale combines all of these elements, and I’ve only been able to provide a couple highlights during this day trip. These past two years have kept most of us closer to home, and shown that we don’t have to travel long distances to appreciate great communities. As the sun gets close to setting, I’m hitting the trail to ride home and though my day hasn’t ended I’m already thinking about my next trip back.

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